A guide to feeling joy and wonder in one of the world’s most spectacular settings. Positano has a seemingly impossible beauty that captures the heart.

Here we will share our experiences of the best things this magical destination has to offer… an itinerary that will make you feel the sense of escape, experience and exploration that we all seek when traveling to our world’s epic destinations. You can also check out our Amazing Day Trips from Positano blog to complete your itinerary. And Carla@vacationkids.com is standing by to help you plan and book your dream vacation…now we invite you to read on…

Escape

Fall in love with Positano. Gaze in awe at the cliff-hugging, richly painted town, tumbling down to the glassy-green sea. Yes, there are crowds. And lots of steps to climb…everywhere…it isn’t called the vertical city for nothing.

So we planned 6 days (so that we could schedule days with absolutely no itinerary) in order to ensure there was ample time to lay back, lounge and simply sit and stare at the impossibly stacked buildings, somehow precariously clinging to the cliffs.

And to gaze at the sea. Dotted with boats of every size shape and color, from those that seem less than seaworthy, to others that are incredible luxury yachts. Bask in the view in each direction: South towards Amalfi and several smaller (quieter and quaint) towns dotting the coast…North toward the road to Sorrento, where the coastline gives way to rocky cliffs that tumble to the sea. On clear days (which are most) you’ll see the Isle of Capri in the distance, a day’s destination unto itself.

You may choose to stay high on the cliffs and gaze down at Positano’s largest beach, Spaggia Grande. Rows of colorful umbrellas along the pebbles (this is not a sandy beach so bring water shoes). Watch the endless line of boats drop off the day trippers and pick them up as the sun sinks. If you wake early you’ll see the supplies unloaded for local businesses, as well as the fishermen still tending nets, heading out for the fresh catch to appear on tonight’s menu.

We choose to stay much lower, practically at sea level at the Covo dei Saraceni. It was the perfect spot to sit poolside and gaze up the hillside and out to sea.

And the ease of walking the beachside restaurant row made this the perfect location for us. Exclusive, for its privileged location directly on the sea at the Spiaggia Grande, Unique as the splendid seaside pool, Unmistakable, for the style, the colors and the forms the typical villa of Positano.

Experience

There are two amazing ways to experience Positano, by land (climbing) or sea (sitting and swimming). Both are spectacular.

From the bus terminal, there are no roads to the beach, so the walking begins immediately. Our driver took our luggage in a cart and simply said meet at the beach. There’s only one way to go – down. The Via dei Mulini is a lovely walkway, shaded by arbors, lined with shops and restaurants most featuring beautiful ceramics…most adorned by lemons.

Along this coastline you are in the land of lemons, which grow the size of grapefruits. You can enjoy them frozen, in lemonade, but particularly in limoncello. The fairly strong aperitif has a unique taste, and is served after EVERY meal, always on the house. My favorite way to consume is in a spritz, with Prosecco and a dash of seltzer. It is easy to lose count of how many Limoncello spritz’s you may have on your trip!

On this path, you’ll pass Chiesa Santa Maria Assunte, Positano’s simple, beautiful church, recognizable in every photo for its iconic green-tiled dome. Recently, an underground experience has opened to go deeper in the area’s history.

Though it can be hot, it is a wonderful daytime stroll. If starting from the beach, when you reach the top, take a rest at a table along the railing.

The server will dash across the insanely narrow craziness of Amalfi drive, and return with your drinks and few snacks. Time to sit and stare.

Another great land option is to walk the visit a beach other than Spaggia Grande. From our hotel (or the port) you can take the Via Positanesi d’America walkway up, then down the 485 steps to Fornillo Beach.

A lovely pebble stretch, lined with colorful umbrellas and nice, casual beach shacks and bars to lazily spend a morning or afternoon. The walk itself is only 10-15 minutes depending on how many times you stop to gaze or take a picture.

Possibly the most popular land excursion is the ‘Path of the Gods’. The trail connects the hilltop town of Agerola with Nocelle. About 7 kilometers long taking 3 – 5 hours of steep inclines, boasting some of the most spectacular views of the coastline. We had booked a guided tour, however it was cancelled so we easily chose another option.

For an alternate walk at the higher elevations, take the public bus to Nocelle and walk some of the ancient paths to much closer Montepertuso. The bus itself was is adventure, again navigating the winding, narrow and crowded Amalfi drive, actually scraping cars in the opposite direction.

We arrived at our starting point with well marked signs. Lovely wooded paths with breathtaking viewpoints along the way to the village.

We emerged onto a road just as the rain hit. Arriving early at the picturesque town square, we waited for the restaurants and shops to open.

After just a bit we enjoyed a wonderful lunch and even had time to explore the alleyways and cobbled streets before our return.

Beyond our land excursions, arguably the best way to see Positano and the spectacular coastline is from a boat. We had the opportunity to take to the water on 3 occasions.

A private sunset cruise. This may actually have been the highlight of our trip. As soon as you pull away from the bustling port, the peaceful serenity of the gentle waters transports you.

Our captain spoiled us with music, Prosecco, and a private tour including sea caves, passages between the rocks and, of course, the spectacular backdrop of Positano. He also gifted us with hundreds (literally) of pictures for us to relive the moment.

Daytime boat tour of the Amalfi Coast. This is a must do…we were delighted by the beautiful pastel towns clinging to the cliffs.

Taking in the sights all the way from Positano to Minori, included a stop in Amalfi for a gigantic lemon ice…

…fantastic waterside lunch in Praiano for their signature potatoes and squid…

…a peek into the secluded cove of Fuore…

and 3 swim stops made this a day to remember.

Day trip to Capri. A destination unto itself, the island of lemons was a delight.

Positano is the perfect jumping off point to explore the wonders of the Amalfi Coast. Click here for a deeper dive into our day in Capri and other amazing nearby destinations. For the full itinerary of our excursions, click here to see ‘amazing day trips from Positano’

Exploration

Positano has no lack of cliff side bars, chic restaurants and upscale shops. The main windy thoroughfare slopes steeply up to Amalfi Drive, giving access to all.

On our first night we celebrated our 40th wedding anniversary at La Sponda in the Le Siranuse hotel. We started with drinks at Aldo’s bar outside, and as the sky turned from pink to orange to purple as the cliffside lights brought Positano to a glow.

Strolling musicians under the candlelight made this the most romantic meal of our trip. Quite pricey and difficult to get a reservation…do book months in advance.

Unlike many destinations in Italy, most dining in Positano is upscale and should be planned in advance. Here are a few more standouts we found:

Terrazzo Cele. An elegant terrace overlooking the sea, colorful seating and sculptured gardens. Perfect sunset and romantic setting.

La Tagliatelle. Outside of Positano in Montepertuso, this rustic hillside farm-to-table experience is a must do. They run a shuttle on the hour, but know that it gets crowded. Before dark, visit the farm and terraced orchards to see your future dinner.

There are no menus, just huge family style plates of appetizers, pastas, meats and desserts served with house wine. You’ll be glad for all the calories burned walking the steps that day.

Located in our hotel, Covo Dei Sarancini, The Savino Restaurant, features an enchanting view of the sea and Spaggia Grande, offering a menu rooted in the traditional cuisine of Positano; the careful presentation of every dish was unforgettable.

Along Spaggia Grande there’s a bustling restaurant scene, starting with the most well-known, Chez Black.

With reservations required we had to adjust and missed this one, opting for Ristorante Le Tre Sorelle just next door and we were not disappointed.

We had a fantastic meal of fresh seafood pasta and a zucchini pasta as recommended by Stanley Tucci.

Bars

Perched high on the cliff along Amalfi Drive is Franco’s, our favorite Positano bar. Amazing views from the tables at the railing, and a buzzy atmosphere inside, under the stars, featuring inventive cocktails like the ‘Dipinto de Blue’ and ‘Franco’s Fizz’.

The Ocean Bar is a comfy, chic spot on Spaggia Grande, perfect for pre or post dinner drinks and people-watching.

Music on the rocks. This is the late night spot open till 4am. DJ sets and cocktails until dawn in a unique cave-style nightclub carved out of a cliff by the sea. If you’re looking for the spot to party in Positano, this is it.

Our hotel lobby bar at Covo di Sarancini had a lovely atmosphere with beach views and comfortable sofas.

You’re guaranteed to fall in love with the magic of this beautiful destination. Take the time to savor it all and create lasting images of paradise. And check out our guide to The best day Trips from Positano to complete your itinerary.

To plan and book your dream trip to Positano, reach out to Carla@vacationkids.com We guarantee your trip will be as magical as ours!

Follow my blog with Bloglovin