The Best of St. John - Go Here, There, and Everywhere

It is a cliche to refer to a place where ‘time stands still’. Our changing climate and the effects of over-tourism have affected travel destinations the world over.

But St. John, USVI has an advantage. The 20 square mile island, accessible by ferry from neighboring St Thomas is home to the Virgin Islands National Park. The park protects 90% of the island (both under and over water) from development. After visiting nearly 30 years ago we found the rugged volcanic hills, pristine beaches and local charm to be as magical as we remember it, all those years ago.

Plan on your trip being super casual, super chill. Take out 2/3 of what you plan to pack. And if you are a snorkeler, this is the time to invest in your own gear. You’ll use it every day, if you want.

An easy ferry ride from the Red Hook dock in St. Thomas will have you in Cruz Bay within 30 minutes.

From there, you’ll navigate a few logistics (jeep rental, food provisioning, etc.). And be prepared for some of the most mountainous driving you’ll ever encounter…a roller coaster complete with hairpin turns. As far as accommodations, don’t expect the usual lineup of hi-rise mega-resorts along the beach (Westin is the only major development on the Island) so many opt for a private villa rental.

St. John is also a great launching point for an adventure in the British Virgin Islands. Click here for our guide to a Perfect day in the BVIs.

It is our great privilege to know two wonderful people who love St. John so much that they carved out a mountainside oasis that transported us to a place of beauty and serenity.

Someday Isle ‘a peaceful retreat with magical views’, is nestled on a steep hillside, looking out over Coral Bay. The views extend forever, as far as Tortola and the countless islands of both British and U.S. Virgin Islands, eventually fade into the horizon.

Whatever time of day, sunrise to sunset, the views are magnificent.

The accommodations are complete with breezy decks, tasteful interiors and lush gardens that would make your stay in St. John complete, even if you never left the grounds.

But of course, your sense of adventure calls and St. John is blessed with more than its share of activities and attractions to fill your days and nights.

The beaches. St. John beaches are the gems of the Virgin Islands. From the better-known destinations that line the North Shore to lesser known spots around the Island, the crystal clear turquoise sea kisses powdery white sand, bordered by coconut palms, seagrapes and emerald green mountains are among the most beautiful in the world.

Ranked as one of the world’s best, Trunk Bay lures visitors into the Virgin Islands National Park to lounge and play in its postcard setting. Snorkel the unique underwater trail right from the beach. Do be aware this is a popular destination…check the cruise ship schedules for day trippers from St. Thomas but you can always plan on enjoying early morning and late afternoon quiet. Don’t miss the photo opportunity from the turnout on North Shore Road above the shoreline (above).

Maho Bay. This delightful stretch of sand extends to grassy beds where sea turtles and starfish are sure to be spotted. The calm seas are perfect for Paddleboarding and just relaxing.

Venture right across the road for beach rentals, food trucks and the colorful Paddle In Tiki Bar. Parking at all of St.. John’s popular beaches is limited, so plan accordingly.

Hawksnest Bay is an another gem not to be missed. The reefs that begin just steps away from your beach chair are an easy exploration, featuring bright orange Elkhorn coral and teeming with tropical fish.

Cinnamon Bay lies along the same shore and offers some very special opportunities. For those a bit more adventurous, snorkel around Cinnamon Cay just offshore, providing dramatic rock formations that tumble into the sea. In addition to the colorful array of coral and fish we spotted a nurse shark lazily swimming right past us.

Just across the road are two trails. The Cinnamon Bay Self-Guiding Trail is a well maintained half-mile loop passing through ruins of the Sugar Factory, Old Danish Cemetery and Tropical Forest. The National Park has placed a series of informative signs along the route, covering history, culture, nature and environmental concerns.

I can go on and on to list many more less visited spots, Francis Bay, Brown Bay, Hanson Bay… just to name a few. Mix your days with the more popular and less crowded beaches for a well-rounded experience.

Snorkeling. Starting with the beaches already named, the beauty of St John lies as much under as along its shores. The reefs are healthy with National Park protection and are treasured by outfitters that will guide you to the best spots.

Captain Colin of FlyAway Charters absolutely delighted our family with the most diverse destinations around the Southern shores.

I won’t give away his itinerary but can allude to experiencing everything from deep trenches to soft coral gardens to zen-like mangroves. Add in the colorful narrative of the island’s history and you have an unforgettable day.

Hiking. St. John has something for everyone…from rugged mountains with steep ascents and breathtaking views to coastal treks to hidden beaches. We hiked a popular trail to Rams Head, a rugged adventure from the beach, ascending 200 feet to a dramatic view of the crashing waves below.

The trail passes over the serene Salt Pond Beach, past Drunk Bay and over and Blue Cobblestone Beach. Each part of the trail is a destination in itself.

The final push to the top ascends through a cactus covered hillside (Turk’s head cactus) and a series of switchbacks finally reaching the summit of Rams Head Point.

Once you reach the summit you are rewarded with a 360 degree cliffside view of the sea and bays just passed below. Historically significant, Rams Head was a stronghold for the Akwamu tribesman who rebelled against slavery in 1733.

The salty breeze is refreshing, especially on a hot day. Do plan this hike in the early or late hours, and bring plenty of water. A dip in the Salt Pond is a great way to cap off this adventure.

A day in the BVIs…St. John is the perfect home base to launch from.

From Cruz Bay we joined Calypso Charters ‘Bad Kitty’ tour for an incredible day that included the natural marvel: the ‘Baths of Virgin Gorda’, a snorkel stop at Norman Island and a classic party stop at Jost Van Dyke and the iconic Soggy Dollar Bar. Click here for a complete guide to a perfect day in the BVIs.

Kayaking. We love being right on the water in a kayak. From Cruz Bay, Arawak Adventures took us on a relaxing paddle through the Channel and up the North Shore. We pulled up to pristine Scott’s beach just past Caneel Bay.

The shallow reef and grasses were perfect to spot stingrays, turtles, barracuda, puffers, eels, starfish and lobster. Yet another fantastic snorkel!

Where to eat. We really didn’t plan to exhaust the St. John food scene, wanting to stay casual, but found some definite highlights to check out and enjoy:

Coral Bay

Lime Out. How can you miss a floating taco bar? With tropical drinks? Take a water taxi or have your charter pull up, swim over and grab a floating seat. Send your drinks over to the server in a little raft. So much fun!

Miss Lucy’s. The most awesome local seaside eatery just outside CoraL Bay. The conch pulled fresh from the sea and the grouper Reuben was a hit.

Ekteake. A great find, right at the junction of RT 180 towards Coral Bay. Family run and owned, local Caribbean dishes including oxtail and curried goat.

Skinny Legs. Fun casual burger joint

Cruz Bay: The Longboard. Exceptional! Inventive Asian fusion with ‘sushi wraps’, fried rice and poke bowls.

Great cocktails and IMHO, the best painkiller on the island…and I tried many!

Banana Hut. Nice open air deck and fresh fish.

The Windmill Bar. Great spot for a drink at sunset.

St. John is a magical, special place for those who want experiences beyond the usual resort and lounge chair (not that we don’t love that too!). If you have an adventurous spirit and want to get close to nature, there’s no truly place like it. And to our delight, with the protection of our National Park System and our collective efforts to preserve our beautiful planet, it will stay that way.