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Bali - Go Here, There, and Everywhere
Bali

From magnificent mountains to rugged coastlines to volcanic hillsides to black sandy beaches, it’s no surprise Bali is known as the ‘Island of the Gods’. The Balinese architecture is no less prominent with the island housing thousands of Hindu temples in every nook and cranny.

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The wonders of Southeast Asia continue to amaze and delight us. Our trip to Bali was part one of a long-awaited trip to see our daughter, who now lives and works in Singapore (which will be part two of our journey). For us, the total trip took over 26 hours of flight time from New Jersey, from Monday evening to Wednesday afternoon, and we made it there without a hitch (but pretty wiped out) despite a very recent earthquake and continuing volcanic activity (which totally stressed me out). Here are our memorable moments and a few ideas on how to spend yours.

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1) Stay at one of Bali’s amazing resorts. If you’re past the whole backpacker/hostel scene, you can and should pamper yourself at one of the incredible beach or mountain getaways.

IMG_2313 (1)The Mulia Resort, Nusa Dua. This spectacular resort was our home for six glorious days. It is massive, having been recognized by Condé Nast Traveler as the number one beach resort in the world, and the title is well-deserved. Stunning architecture set on the sparkling Indian Ocean. Immense infinity pools, lined with rows of statues, heads bowed in reverence to the beauty of their surroundings.

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The landscaping is a feast of color, with a visual delight around every corner. Magnificent restaurants and bars at 7 levels from ocean to sky, featuring the spicy, exotic flavors of Indonesia…Nasi Goreng (fried rice), Gado-gado (Indonesian salad served with peanut sauce), and Satay are the staples…some dishes can be VERY spicy, so be warned!

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In the near distance, the cliff side Temple Pura Geger was a constant reminder of the heart and soul of Balinese culture. An absolute 5-Star experience, that tempts you to simply stay put…and you absolutely should for some of your time…but balance it by exploring this land of wonders. Personally, we like to alternate resort and excursion days.

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What you should know: The Mulia is located in the resort area of South Bali, about 30 minutes from Denpasar Airport…without traffic. And the traffic around Bali can be horrendous. It is a few hours ride through twisting and turning roads to many the many major temples and sights, so be aware of distances that may seem short on a map.

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2) Take a guided tour. Long car rides, speeding alongside the 3 million motorcycles that compete with trucks, tour buses and taxis are best done by a local pro. Time will force choices, so we chose a guided tour with Get your Guide, and had a very informative (and quite talkative) private guide nicknamed Jay. He took us on a 14 hour marathon tour that started with a 3 hour ride north to begin a day that packed in a bit of everything. Our ride took us around the coast of East Bali and into the interior mountains. Once out of the city, the area became more rural, with stretches of lush green jungle and rice paddies (more on that later).

IMG_2563Stop 1: Lempuyang Temple, locally referred to as Pura Lempuyang Luhur, is one of Bali’s oldest and most highly regarded temples, It is also believed to predate the majority of Hindu temples on the island. Definitely a highlight on any travel itinerary for the fit and adventurous, the main temple lies at 1,175m above sea level, up on the peak of the namesake Mount Lempuyang in East Bali.

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We began the steep climb, actually having to turn off the air conditioning so the car could make the ascent. We visited the much photographed ‘Gates of Heaven’, waiting in a long line for our turn to pose between the temple gates. Touristy…yes, but iconic nevertheless. Opposite, we climbed the steps surrounded by the stone dragons that protect the island’s land and water.

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Stop 2: Tirta Gangga, the Water Palace is a magical and beautiful place to visit while you are in Bali. A beautiful temple with fish ponds, fountains and statues. And you can also swim in the refreshing cool natural pools.

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Walking the stepping stones through the koi pond was really fun and unique. The fountains, statues and ever flowing water throughout made this a most memorable stop.

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Stop 3: Tukad Cepung Waterfall, one of my favorite moments of our entire trip.

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A steep climb down slippery, uneven steps, through a deep ravine in the rocks led to a spectacular waterfall from above. Standing under the pounding water was absolutely exhilarating.

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Stop 4: Kumulilir Coffee Plantation. A serene setting to learn the craft that produces some of the most delicious teas and coffee we’ve ever experienced…coconut, ginger lemongrass…

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The tour included a guided trail to smell the plants, and learn about ‘poop’ coffee…where the mongoose eats the beans…and poops them out to add a ‘special’ flavor! Not to be missed.

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Stop 5: The jungle swing. This was a blast, as each of us took turns strapping into the swing for a fairly scary push high over the jungle canopy. Although very secure, it was a real thrill!

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Stop 6 (and along the entire journey) The rice paddies. Unfortunately it was dark when we reached the famous terraces at Tegallalang, but all along our ride we were treated with beautiful views of both ready to harvest and younger plantings.

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Seeing the panoramic views and stunning shades of green were beautiful. We were moved with a sincere appreciation of the labor involved to produce this staple of Asian life.

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3. Get under the water. It would be a huge miss not to experience the amazing snorkeling and diving in and around the islands near Bali. This was a real adventure, with a lot of transfers and moving parts that weren’t really explained well in the Get your Guide online description. Our daughter was beyond excited to swim with a Manta Ray, so that was our pick. After a harrowing car ride to the beach, we walked the narrow alleys through a monsoon-like downpour, had a confusing wait with hundreds of travelers and day-trippers ready to wade through the waves and board the high speed boat to Lombonken Island.

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Once there, we debarked the boat, crossed the island in back of a truck to the Mesari Beach Club and Restaurant, which was really nice after the hectic morning journey.

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We headed out on small boats to three amazing snorkel spots. The first was Manta Bay, and yes, we did spot and come nearly face-to-face with a Manta – the majestic creature, with it’s jet black massive wing span, and mouth open to feed glided through the deep blue water right underneath me. Unforgettable!

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Two more snorkel spots on beautiful, healthy reefs, a great lunch and kayaking through the mangroves were making up for the crazy morning.

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Little did we know, the trip back would be another adventure. Low tide pushed our high speed boat far out into the bay, causing us to trek out in the water to smaller boats to transfer. Getting off the boat back on Bali was no less hectic.

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What you should know: all in all, a great day, but check all the logistics of any snorkel trip from Bali to be fully prepared!

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4. Dinner with a view. The dramatic landscape of Bali can provide unforgettable experiences…

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Perched on the cliffs at Ulawatu, The Edge Hotel and One-Eighty restaurant features a spectacular infinity pool, hundred of feet above the crashing waves. A glass bottom in the pool give a real perspective to this marvel. A bit pricy, but enjoying pizzas, small plates and a nice bottle of wine on a daybed was well worth it.

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Lunch above the rice paddies at Lereng Agung, Karangasem. This truly spectacular setting featured an Indonesian buffet and plenty of Bintang (the local beer…go for the big bottle for a better value). Our only regret is the volcano was covered in cloud.

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Beach dinner on Jimbaran Bay. A feast of seafood, bottle of wine and music at at our table made for a romantic and memorable last night in Bali…just the two of us!

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Our list is far, far from complete…visiting more the amazing temples certainly the biggest omission. But, not taking time to just enjoy our resort, bask in the sun, swim and unwind would truly have been a miss. The people, food, culture, landscape and experiences we had in Bali will be cherished forever.

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